Wednesday, November 4, 2009


The make up artists:
If there’s a major red-carpet event, Kay Montano is there, working on stars such as Thandie Newton and Keira Knightley. She was part of the team behind the famous 1993 Calvin Klein Obsession campaign with a naked Kate Moss.

British-born Diane Kendal has worked with Penélope Cruz and Cameron Diaz , as well as the photographers David Sims, Inez van Lamsweerde and Mario Sorrenti. She has long been involved with the Giorgio Armani and Estée Lauder brands.

One of the original celebrity make-up artists, Mary Greenwell worked in the 1980s with Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford and Diana, Princess of Wales. She is still in high demand and often collaborates with Grace Coddington of American Vogue.

A make-up trendsetter, Pat McGrath is in demand by stars such as Scarlett Johansson and Jennifer Aniston. She has worked with John Galliano since the start of his career and on advertising campaigns for Dolce & Gabbana.

Known for his experimental fantasy make-up, Kabuki – born in Britain and based in New York – has worked with Gwen Stefani, Kylie Minogue, Madonna and Naomi Campbell. He often collaborates with the photographer Steven Klein.

Red lipstick
Kabuki Nars Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Cruella, £17 ( A pencil with the consistency of lipstick . Red lips teamed with dewy skin can look old-fashioned, but this matte finish gives it a modern twist.
Pat McGrath Dolce & Gabbana Classic Cream Lipstick in Ultra, £20, from Harrods (020 7730 1234) A deep, cool-based red, ideal for all skin tones. It makes teeth appear whiter, stays for hours, feels silky-smooth and has a delightful scent.

Mary Greenwell Chanel Rouge Allure Laque in 75 Dragon, £23 (020 7493 3836) This is a classic red with a fantastic new formula – it’s somewhere between a lipstick and a gloss.

Kay Montano Chanel Rouge Hydrabase in 60 New York Red, £20 (020 7493 3836) Wonderfully sophisticated and not too orange. I used it on Claudia Schiffer, with just a faint smudge of grey kohl and mascara to keep it modern.

Diane Kendal Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Volupté in 17 Red Muse, £20 (available nationwide) This is a beautiful classic red. Its creamy texture glides on, leaving lips soft, glossy and slightly plumped up.


Kabuki Kryolan Dermacolor Camouflage Cream Minipalette, £13.45 (020 7257 6157) Kryolan’s palette contains 16 shades. Use a tiny amount – people put on too much, so it exaggerates rather than conceals. Apply after foundation rather than before.

Pat McGrath Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage Concealer, £25, from Selfridges (0800 123400) Use this sparingly over blemishes. It looks like real skin when applied with a soft brush.

Mary Greenwell Dior Skinflash Radiance Booster Pen, £23 (01932 233900) I love putting something paler on the skin under my eyes. This Dior pen is really modern, the texture never creases and it’s light-reflective.

Kay Montano Clinique Airbrush Concealer, £15 (0870 034 2566) Great for under the eyes. It has a high orange colour, which conceals any blue, and is particularly great for fair and medium skin tones.

Diane Kendal Chanel Estompe Eclat Corrective Concealer Stick, £19 (020 7493 3836) Apply this with your fingers – it warms up the concealer and really melts it into the skin for a clean, seamless look.

Kabuki Make Up For Ever HD Foundation, £26.50, from Guru (020 7731 4646) I’ve been using a lot of this recently. It’s long-lasting and has a really good colour range. It has shades that are hard to find in other brands.

Pat McGrath Max Factor Natural Minerals Foundation, £12.99, from Boots ( I use this foundation at shows where it’s a 'no make-up’ look . The light-reflective properties diffuse fine lines and highlight the face beautifully for a healthy glow.

Mary Greenwell Suqqu Foundation, £60, from Selfridges (0800 123400) This is amazing. I’ve been raving about it for a while. I love the consistency, texture and coverage. Every skin I’ve tried it on looks great.

Kay Montano Chanel Vitalumiere Satin Smoothing Fluid Makeup, £30 (020 7493 3836) There’s not one celebrity I know who doesn’t use this – from Salma Hayek to Amy Adams. It looks like you haven’t got any foundation on.

Diane Kendal Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer, £32, from Selfridges (0800 123400) Laura Mercier offers a great range of foundations, from full coverage, down to this light tint, which is great for everyday wear.

Kabuki Kevyn Aucoin The Mascara, £22.90, from This is great if you don’t want a thick, heavy lash look – Daphne Guinness loves it. It coats each lash individually and doesn’t leave clumps or flakes.

Pat McGrath Max Factor False Lash Effect Mascara, £10.99, from Boots ( The applicator wand has finely spaced bristles that separate and coat each lash evenly for a non-clumpy, clean lash look.

Mary Greenwell Estée Lauder Turbolash All Effects Motion Mascara, £28 (0870 034 2566) I’m fascinated by this. As it vibrates it seems to be doing so much more work than ordinary mascara . Don’t miss the outside corner of the top lashes.

Kay Montano Clinique Naturally Glossy Mascara, £14.50 (0870 034 2566) This is great for achieving a natural look – it gives really fine lashes, not cloggy ones. Two coats of this is better than one of thick mascara.

Diane Kendal Maybelline Lash Stiletto Mascara, £7.99 (available nationwide) The brush allows you to get into the roots and also to coat the bottom lashes without clumping.

Kabuki Mac Blot Film, £10 ( I’d rather use these little blot papers or loose powder than pressed. Pressed powder tends to build up on the nose as the day wears on.

Pat McGrath Max Factor Crème Puff, £4.45, from Boots ( Use this over your favourite moisturiser for a fresh-looking face, or over foundation for a perfectly glamorous Hollywood starlet complexion.

Mary Greenwell Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Powder, £27, from Selfridges (0800 13400) This very neutral pressed powder mattes the skin beautifully, and helps to treat the T-zone. It’s a totally fine, translucent powder.

Kay Montano Jurlique Silk Finishing Powder, £24 ( I’m not keen on pressed powder. I find loose powder far more sheer. This one comes in rose, lavender or citrus versions. It feels like genuine skincare.

Diane Kendal Diorskin Poudre Compacte, £26.50 (01932 233900) This covers skin really well, and has a fine texture that won’t cake during the day. Just powder the T-zone, allowing the rest of the face to stay fresh.

Nude lipstick
Kabuki Mac Slimshine Lipstick in Bare, £12.50 ( Pat this on with a finger or an eyeshadow brush for a softer look. Wearing a nude colour on lips means you can draw more attention to the eyes.

Pat McGrath Dior Addict Lipcolor in Beige Negligee, £19 (01932 233900) This is the perfect consistency to create a natural-looking, sexy pout with just a hint of colour. I also pat it on to the cheeks for a creamy blusher.

Mary Greenwell Suqqu Creamy Lipstick, £24 , from Selfridges (0800 123400) This is gorgeous, creamy 1960s nude. If only a little is applied it adds a hint of colour while also moistening the lips.

Kay Montano Nars Sheer Lipstick in Belle de Jour, £17 ( Pair this with a strong, dark eye. Pale colours often have more talc and can be drying, but this one doesn’t go chalky on the lips.

Diane Kendal Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Volupté in 26 Tender Peach, £20 (available nationwide) This gives the effect of a nude lip, but doesn’t make you look ill. It’s important to get a nude with a bit of colour.

Kabuki Dior 5-Couleurs Iridescent in Petal Shine, £36 (01932 233900) Layer the darkest shade close to the lashes, and the lightest at the inner corner. Pick from the other three colours to fill in the rest – you can’t go wrong.

Pat McGrath Dolce & Gabbana Eye Colour Quad in Stromboli, £35, from Harrods (020 7730 1234) I apply black all around the eyes, blend out with topaz, use copper in the crease and gold in the inner corners.

Mary Greenwell Guerlain Ombre Eclat Four Shades in Perle d’Argent 480, £33.76, from House of Fraser (0845 602 1073) This creates a delicious 1960s smoky eye. You can wear just one colour or mix with the others.

Kay Montano Les 4 Ombres de Chanel in 93 Smoky Eyes, £34 (020 7493 3836) My favourite – having four shades makes it easier to blend. You can play at being your own make-up artist.

Diane Kendal Nars Duo Eyeshadow in Portobello, £23 ( Long-wearing, crease-resistant and sheer – build them up and blend out for a more dramatic effect. Use a good brush and blend well.

Kabuki Mac Dazzleglass, £14 ( For women who are serious about lip-gloss. It has light-refracting particles that give a rich, jewel-like effect. One coat does the trick and produces a lustrous finish.

Pat McGrath Dior Addict Ultra-Gloss Reflect, £17.50 (01932 233900) Models I’ve worked with backstage love this gloss. It comes in a wide variety of colours, delivers high shine, is non-drying and long-lasting – just what every make-up artist needs.

Mary Greenwell Rouge Dior Crème de Gloss, £17.50 (01932 233900) Gloss can be quite messy but this one is great and I love Dior’s colours. It can also be worn over opaque lipsticks to give the appearance of a fuller mouth.

Kay Montano Mac Clear Lipglass, £10 ( For real life I prefer lips sheer, but for drama it’s best to go over the top with lip-gloss. Wear it over colour to make a statement.

Diane Kendal Smith’s Rosebud Salve, £6.95, from As you get older, proper lip-gloss is harder to carry off. This everyday salve is more about great grooming – having a hint of lip colour.

Kabuki Diorliner Precision Eyeliner, £21.50 (01932 233900) This makes applying eyeliner almost foolproof, turning any novice into a pro. For drama, use the Black, for a more natural look the Brown. If you’re not afraid of colour, try the Plum.

Pat McGrath Stila Kajal Eyeliner, £13.50, from This pencil glides on smoothly and blends easily for a great smoky eye. Apply to the base of the upper and lower lashes then carefully smudge.

Mary Greenwell Elizabeth Arden Smoky Eyes Powder Pencil in Espresso, £13 (available nationwide) A soft pencil that gets into the roots of the lashes and is more wearable than a liquid liner. Brown is softer and more natural than black.

Kay Montano Ecriture de Chanel Automatic Liquid Eyeliner, £22 (020 7493 3836) Rest this liquid liner on your lash root and press into roots – it doesn’t leave any gaps.

Diane Kendal Mac Fluidline in Blacktrack, £12 ( You can use this wet or dry. Put it in the lashline to define the eye then smudge with a cotton bud.

Kabuki Illamasqua Cream Blusher in Rude, £16 (0844 984 1700) I love cream blush – it’s about keeping some dewiness on the face and is more natural than powder. It’s one of those things that will bring your look together.

Pat McGrath Laura Mercier Second Skin Cheek Colour, £18, from Selfridges (0800 123400) I use this when a sun-kissed look is required. It’s sheer and soft and gives a healthy-looking flush.

Mary Greenwell Bourjois Blush, £6.84, from Boots ( Sheer blush is the best for faint cheek colour – this is sheer, shimmery and lifts the cheeks. I don’t like cream blushes – they fade, are harder to put on and can wipe off your foundation.

Kay Montano Chanel Joues Contraste Powder Blush in 56 Tea Rose, £28 (020 7493 3836). This is a sophisticated colour that suits everybody and is not too shimmery. It’s important to use a good blusher brush so it doesn’t look patchy.

Diane Kendal Nars Blush in Orgasm, £18.50 ( Nars makes great blushers that are really easy to wear. Orgasm – a peachy pink with shimmer – is the bestseller.

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